Here’s a list of 10 basic things to think about when shooting to get sharp images
1. Hold Your Camera Well
A lot of blur in the photos that I see is a direct result of camera shake (the movement of your camera for that split second when your shutter is open). While the best way to tackle camera shake is to use a Tripod (see below) there are many times when using one is impractical and you’ll need to shoot while holding your camera. use both hands, keep the camera close to your body, support yourself with a wall, tree or some other solid object etc.
2. Tripods
Regular readers of this site will have seen my recent series on tripods and know that I’m a big fan of them as a way to reduce shake. While not always practical, the result you’ll get when you do go to the effort of hauling one around can be well worth it.
6. Image Stabilisation
Many cameras and lenses are now being released with different forms of image stabilisation (IS) which won’t eliminate camera shake - but can definitely help reduce its impact. I find that using IS lenses that it will give me an extra two or three stops (ie I can use slower shutter speeds but 2-3 stops) when hand holding my camera. Keep in mind that IS helps with camera movement but not subject movement as it allows you to use slower shutter speeds (not good for moving subjects).
7. Focus
Perhaps the most obvious technique to work on when aiming for sharp lenses is focussing. Most of us use ‘Auto Focussing’ with our cameras but don’t assume that the camera will always get it right. Always visually check what part of the image is in focus before hitting the shutter and if it’s not right try again or switch to manual focus mode. This is particularly important if you’re shooting with a large aperture (small depth of field) where even being slightly out can result in your subject being noticeably out of focus.
8. Good lenses
9. Get your Eyes Checked
10. Clean equipment
Lens Sweet Spot
Lenses have spots in their aperture ranges that are sharper than others. In many cases this is one or two stops from the maximum aperture. So instead of shooting with your lens wide open (ie where the numbers are smallest) pull it back a stop or two and you might find you get a little more clarity in your shots.
Monday, October 8, 2007
Friday, October 5, 2007
Scale Models
10 tips for finding the beauty in traditionally scary beasts.
1.. Shoot at the animal's eye level. This is easier done in the studio than in the field, especially for smaller creatures. This perspective shows off your subject's personality much better then a top-down shot.
2.. Focus on the eye. If the eyes aren't sharp, it's much more difficult for viewers to get a visual fix on the picture. You can let the rest of the body blur with limited depth of field.
3.. Fill the frame. Their beauty is largely in the fine detail -- scale and color patterns -- revealed when the animal fills the frame. Given the small size of many of them, macro focusing (preferably with a dedicated macro lens) is a must.
4.. Manage depth of field. The great challenge of macro work is the extremely shallow plane of focus. Stopping down your aperture helps, but most likely still won't get the whole animal in focus. One simple though useful trick is to align your subject to your focal plane. Or, letting the focus fall off as the image moves from the primary point of interest can be a very effective pictorial style.
5.. Make your subject pop. Simplicity increases a photo's impact, and backgrounds can make or break an image. In the studio, I use a dark, nonreflective backdrop. In the wild, I either blur out the background by reducing depth of field with a wider aperture or use flash with an aperture small enough to darken the ambient exposure beyond the reach of the flash. Much of this also can be done in digital postprocessing: Shoot for maximum data capture, then blur or darken the background with imaging software.
6.. Flash through glass. Many times you'll have to shoot your subject through the walls of a glass cage. To get a crisp image that's free of reflective glare, use an off-camera flash placed either above, to the side, or at an angle to the front pane. Never flash straight onto the glass, unless you can position your lens right on the glass using a rubber lenshood.
7.. Use a macro flash. Ring and macro flashes bring out the subject's features without an overpowering blast of light. Nikon's R1C1 Speedlight wireless system is particularly flexible: You can place multiple units on the top, sides, and even inside the cage with no tangle of wires.
8.. Get acquainted. Don't expect to step up and take an amazing picture of an animal right away. Getting to know your subject's traits and habits improves your chances of nailing that special shot.
9.. Use natural techniques. Many reptiles won't stay still for a picture. One good trick is to cover them up for a few minutes with a towel or a bowl: The darker and tighter the fit, the more comfortable they will get. Uncover them and then shoot the photo -- you'll have only a few seconds of calm before they flee again, so be sure to preset your focus and exposure. Do not put these creatures in the freezer to slow them down -- it's dangerous as well as cruel.
10.. Be safe. Employ an experienced handler to set up and monitor the animal so that you can focus on taking the picture. And for your own safety and that of the animals, never handle a reptile or amphibian in the wild unless you are an experienced herpetologist.
1.. Shoot at the animal's eye level. This is easier done in the studio than in the field, especially for smaller creatures. This perspective shows off your subject's personality much better then a top-down shot.
2.. Focus on the eye. If the eyes aren't sharp, it's much more difficult for viewers to get a visual fix on the picture. You can let the rest of the body blur with limited depth of field.
3.. Fill the frame. Their beauty is largely in the fine detail -- scale and color patterns -- revealed when the animal fills the frame. Given the small size of many of them, macro focusing (preferably with a dedicated macro lens) is a must.
4.. Manage depth of field. The great challenge of macro work is the extremely shallow plane of focus. Stopping down your aperture helps, but most likely still won't get the whole animal in focus. One simple though useful trick is to align your subject to your focal plane. Or, letting the focus fall off as the image moves from the primary point of interest can be a very effective pictorial style.
5.. Make your subject pop. Simplicity increases a photo's impact, and backgrounds can make or break an image. In the studio, I use a dark, nonreflective backdrop. In the wild, I either blur out the background by reducing depth of field with a wider aperture or use flash with an aperture small enough to darken the ambient exposure beyond the reach of the flash. Much of this also can be done in digital postprocessing: Shoot for maximum data capture, then blur or darken the background with imaging software.
6.. Flash through glass. Many times you'll have to shoot your subject through the walls of a glass cage. To get a crisp image that's free of reflective glare, use an off-camera flash placed either above, to the side, or at an angle to the front pane. Never flash straight onto the glass, unless you can position your lens right on the glass using a rubber lenshood.
7.. Use a macro flash. Ring and macro flashes bring out the subject's features without an overpowering blast of light. Nikon's R1C1 Speedlight wireless system is particularly flexible: You can place multiple units on the top, sides, and even inside the cage with no tangle of wires.
8.. Get acquainted. Don't expect to step up and take an amazing picture of an animal right away. Getting to know your subject's traits and habits improves your chances of nailing that special shot.
9.. Use natural techniques. Many reptiles won't stay still for a picture. One good trick is to cover them up for a few minutes with a towel or a bowl: The darker and tighter the fit, the more comfortable they will get. Uncover them and then shoot the photo -- you'll have only a few seconds of calm before they flee again, so be sure to preset your focus and exposure. Do not put these creatures in the freezer to slow them down -- it's dangerous as well as cruel.
10.. Be safe. Employ an experienced handler to set up and monitor the animal so that you can focus on taking the picture. And for your own safety and that of the animals, never handle a reptile or amphibian in the wild unless you are an experienced herpetologist.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
THIS WEEKEND 2 PLACES TO TAKE GREAT FAMILY PHOTOS
September 28 - October 28 Fright Fest Six Flags Over Texas
Six Flags Over Texas
Address:
2201 Road To Six FlagsArlington, TX 76011
Phone:
817-530-6000
It's thrills by day and chills by night at our annual Halloween Fright Fest. Bring the little ones in the daytime for trick-or-treating and kid-friendly fun. Because when the sun goes down, well, let's just say it's not for the faint of heart.
Six Flags Over Texas
Address:
2201 Road To Six FlagsArlington, TX 76011
Phone:
817-530-6000
It's thrills by day and chills by night at our annual Halloween Fright Fest. Bring the little ones in the daytime for trick-or-treating and kid-friendly fun. Because when the sun goes down, well, let's just say it's not for the faint of heart.
State Fair of Texas
Address:
3921 Martin Luther KingDallas, TX 75210
Phone:
214-565-9931
September 28 -October 21 State Fair of Texas Fair Park The State Fair of Texas runs for 24 days. With more than 70 rides-- including the 212 foot Texas Star Ferris Wheel, and a parade through the park every night!
Saturday, September 22, 2007
How to Photograph Insects
Learn a little about your subjects and their habits to know when it is best to capture photos.
• Getting close is very tricky, so knowledge of the environment is crucial in insect photography. Observe your subject carefully; try to see patterns in their behavior: do the honeybees like one particular flower in your yard best? Stake one out and wait for the subject to come to you.• There is not just one bee or fly out there. Remember, you are surrounded by millions of insects every day and if the first one you see gets away, there'll be another soon enough.• Patience is the key. Think of insects like they are two year old kids running around without a break. But everyone, even bumblebees and toddlers eventually needs a break, so that's when to make your photos. It may only last for a few moments, so be ready.• Most insects are very sensitive to carbon dioxide, and will run or fly away if you breathe directly on them; however, certain beetles will freeze when breathed on -- experiment!• Early morning and twilight are the best times to make insect photos, as the cold-blooded creatures slow down when the temperature is lower.• Insects can see shadows very well, so never approach your subject from the same direction as the light casts, or they'll scamper.• Spring and fall, with more dramatic temperature swings are prime seasons for insects. In the late summer and fall most bees will be totally focused on gathering as much food as they can to overwinter -- meaning they'll care less about you, and more about the pollen gathering at this time.• Learning about your local insect and invertebrate population will help you to locate as many of them in their natural habitat, and also to understand their life cycle, so doing your homework is a big part of making successful photos.• Be careful! Many insects and spiders can be dangerous, even deadly! If you are unfamiliar with a specific bug, it's better to presume it's got powerful venom, rather than find out the hard way.
Dramatic Lighting of Outdoor Insects
• Take a Sharpie (or other brand) marker cap and cut the end off -- in effect, making a tiny snoot. • Attach the modified cap to the center area on the diffuser of the strobe or ring flash with black electrical tape. • Cover the entire flash diffuser surface with more black electrical tape, so that the only light transmitted will be through the marker cap. • You've now got a highly focused beam of light that will spotlight your subject -- from above, either side, or even partially backlit. • If you are using a dedicated hotshoe connection, you can shoot (e)TTL exposure. • With non-dedicated flash units or when using a PC-sync cable, you'll have to set the flash manually. Distance to the subject and the strobe's guide number will vary, so you'll have to experiment to find the proper output ratio. • Patience and practice will help you make dramatic winning shots. With this "spotlight" you've now got two items, the camera and the strobe, to position close to the subject -- but once you get the hang of it, I think you'll be happy with the results! • I use this lighting technique and set-up for insects and microfauna, but the sky's the limit! The macro spotlight technique can also be used for miniature collectibles, details of flowers, and whatever else you may shine you macro spotlight on.
Your Home Macro Sweep
Build a simple right-angle frame out of thin wood beams, as shown in the photo here. Use small finishing nails to assemble the pieces into a right-angle frame. • Use a staple gun to mount the stage area of the sweep to the frame. • Affix another smaller piece of white material to the top of the frame, with a fold along the front edge to contain stray light, and you've got a mini-seamless studio! • A single off-shoe flash bounced off the "softbox" will provide pleasing omnidirectional light to your tiny subjects!
By Christopher Badzioch July 2007
• Getting close is very tricky, so knowledge of the environment is crucial in insect photography. Observe your subject carefully; try to see patterns in their behavior: do the honeybees like one particular flower in your yard best? Stake one out and wait for the subject to come to you.• There is not just one bee or fly out there. Remember, you are surrounded by millions of insects every day and if the first one you see gets away, there'll be another soon enough.• Patience is the key. Think of insects like they are two year old kids running around without a break. But everyone, even bumblebees and toddlers eventually needs a break, so that's when to make your photos. It may only last for a few moments, so be ready.• Most insects are very sensitive to carbon dioxide, and will run or fly away if you breathe directly on them; however, certain beetles will freeze when breathed on -- experiment!• Early morning and twilight are the best times to make insect photos, as the cold-blooded creatures slow down when the temperature is lower.• Insects can see shadows very well, so never approach your subject from the same direction as the light casts, or they'll scamper.• Spring and fall, with more dramatic temperature swings are prime seasons for insects. In the late summer and fall most bees will be totally focused on gathering as much food as they can to overwinter -- meaning they'll care less about you, and more about the pollen gathering at this time.• Learning about your local insect and invertebrate population will help you to locate as many of them in their natural habitat, and also to understand their life cycle, so doing your homework is a big part of making successful photos.• Be careful! Many insects and spiders can be dangerous, even deadly! If you are unfamiliar with a specific bug, it's better to presume it's got powerful venom, rather than find out the hard way.
Dramatic Lighting of Outdoor Insects
• Take a Sharpie (or other brand) marker cap and cut the end off -- in effect, making a tiny snoot. • Attach the modified cap to the center area on the diffuser of the strobe or ring flash with black electrical tape. • Cover the entire flash diffuser surface with more black electrical tape, so that the only light transmitted will be through the marker cap. • You've now got a highly focused beam of light that will spotlight your subject -- from above, either side, or even partially backlit. • If you are using a dedicated hotshoe connection, you can shoot (e)TTL exposure. • With non-dedicated flash units or when using a PC-sync cable, you'll have to set the flash manually. Distance to the subject and the strobe's guide number will vary, so you'll have to experiment to find the proper output ratio. • Patience and practice will help you make dramatic winning shots. With this "spotlight" you've now got two items, the camera and the strobe, to position close to the subject -- but once you get the hang of it, I think you'll be happy with the results! • I use this lighting technique and set-up for insects and microfauna, but the sky's the limit! The macro spotlight technique can also be used for miniature collectibles, details of flowers, and whatever else you may shine you macro spotlight on.
Your Home Macro Sweep
Build a simple right-angle frame out of thin wood beams, as shown in the photo here. Use small finishing nails to assemble the pieces into a right-angle frame. • Use a staple gun to mount the stage area of the sweep to the frame. • Affix another smaller piece of white material to the top of the frame, with a fold along the front edge to contain stray light, and you've got a mini-seamless studio! • A single off-shoe flash bounced off the "softbox" will provide pleasing omnidirectional light to your tiny subjects!
By Christopher Badzioch July 2007
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Improve Your Images
Take TIFF:
Most digital cameras use JPEG format, which sheds some detail to save space when storing images. >>TIP If you plan to edit your digital photo and print it later, save the edited image in Tagged Image File Format, which doesn't compromise image quality. Choose File, Save As in your image editing program, and select TIFF from the drop-down list.
Sharpen your photo:
Many digital shots come out looking "soft" or out of focus after you print them. >>TIP Use your image editor's sharpen tool to emphasize the edges of items that appear in your photo. (Though dozens of image editors are out there, we'll offer specific steps for Jasc's Paint Shop Pro.) If you work with Paint Shop Pro, use the oddly named Unsharp Mask tool (click Effects, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask). This tool runs automatically each time you select it. The program that you use, however, may not have an Unsharp Mask tool. If it doesn't, use the more basic Sharpen tool instead. If you can't find a tool by that name in your program, use the Help option to search for the term sharpen. >>TIP Take it easy with Unsharp Mask and Sharpen: If you wind up with a grainy or distorted image, undo a few levels or start over.
Bring out the subject:
Draw attention to the main element in your photo by softening the background. >>TIP First, select the entire subject with your image editor's magic wand (found in Paint Shop Pro's tool palette). If your first click doesn't select the whole subject, hold down the Shift key and click to add more area. Then, reverse the selection to select the whole background. After that, run the Soften tool a few times to blur the background to your satisfaction. In Paint Shop Pro, choose Selections, Invert and then Effects, Blur, Soften.
Pump up the gamma:
It's a fact of life--dark images print poorly. >>TIP Use your program's gamma correction tool (if it has one), rather than the brightness tool, to add life to your picture. Increasing brightness can turn shadows into mud or make whites look radioactive. Gamma concentrates its brightening power on the middle tones in your image more than on the extreme blacks and whites. In Paint Shop Pro, click Colors, Adjust, Gamma Correction and drag the color sliders slightly to the right (no more than three notches). Most pictures won't benefit from a change of more than 30 percent; beyond that, images begin to look bleached out.
Crop with caution:
What looks great on your almost-square computer screen isn't always a good fit for an oblong frame or photo album. >>TIP Use the crop tool from your tool palette to make your photos more appealing. Instead of positioning your main subject smack dab in the middle of the frame, offset it about a third of the way to the left or right of center. Don't crop the image too severely, however. As you trim the image's size, you discard valuable pixels. The finished image needs a sharp enough resolution to print without showing the jagged edges that come from having too few pixels.
Match pixels and size:
When it's time to print your snapshots, one consideration is key: How many pixels can your printer bring to the table? Most ink jet printers are optimized for images with 200 pixels per inch. >>TIP If you're producing an 8-by-10-inch print, use your editing program to verify that your image is no less than 1600 by 2000 pixels (in Paint Shop Pro, choose Image, Image Information). If you start with a lower-resolution image (1024 by 768 pixels, for instance), the resulting print may be blurry. In general, digital images taken with a 2-megapixel camera yield good 5-by-7-inch prints, and images from a 3-megapixel camera are better for 8-by-10-inch prints. Don't worry if your image has an overabundance of pixels--you can still create excellent prints of 3-megapixel images in 5-by-7 format.
Most digital cameras use JPEG format, which sheds some detail to save space when storing images. >>TIP If you plan to edit your digital photo and print it later, save the edited image in Tagged Image File Format, which doesn't compromise image quality. Choose File, Save As in your image editing program, and select TIFF from the drop-down list.
Sharpen your photo:
Many digital shots come out looking "soft" or out of focus after you print them. >>TIP Use your image editor's sharpen tool to emphasize the edges of items that appear in your photo. (Though dozens of image editors are out there, we'll offer specific steps for Jasc's Paint Shop Pro.) If you work with Paint Shop Pro, use the oddly named Unsharp Mask tool (click Effects, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask). This tool runs automatically each time you select it. The program that you use, however, may not have an Unsharp Mask tool. If it doesn't, use the more basic Sharpen tool instead. If you can't find a tool by that name in your program, use the Help option to search for the term sharpen. >>TIP Take it easy with Unsharp Mask and Sharpen: If you wind up with a grainy or distorted image, undo a few levels or start over.
Bring out the subject:
Draw attention to the main element in your photo by softening the background. >>TIP First, select the entire subject with your image editor's magic wand (found in Paint Shop Pro's tool palette). If your first click doesn't select the whole subject, hold down the Shift key and click to add more area. Then, reverse the selection to select the whole background. After that, run the Soften tool a few times to blur the background to your satisfaction. In Paint Shop Pro, choose Selections, Invert and then Effects, Blur, Soften.
Pump up the gamma:
It's a fact of life--dark images print poorly. >>TIP Use your program's gamma correction tool (if it has one), rather than the brightness tool, to add life to your picture. Increasing brightness can turn shadows into mud or make whites look radioactive. Gamma concentrates its brightening power on the middle tones in your image more than on the extreme blacks and whites. In Paint Shop Pro, click Colors, Adjust, Gamma Correction and drag the color sliders slightly to the right (no more than three notches). Most pictures won't benefit from a change of more than 30 percent; beyond that, images begin to look bleached out.
Crop with caution:
What looks great on your almost-square computer screen isn't always a good fit for an oblong frame or photo album. >>TIP Use the crop tool from your tool palette to make your photos more appealing. Instead of positioning your main subject smack dab in the middle of the frame, offset it about a third of the way to the left or right of center. Don't crop the image too severely, however. As you trim the image's size, you discard valuable pixels. The finished image needs a sharp enough resolution to print without showing the jagged edges that come from having too few pixels.
Match pixels and size:
When it's time to print your snapshots, one consideration is key: How many pixels can your printer bring to the table? Most ink jet printers are optimized for images with 200 pixels per inch. >>TIP If you're producing an 8-by-10-inch print, use your editing program to verify that your image is no less than 1600 by 2000 pixels (in Paint Shop Pro, choose Image, Image Information). If you start with a lower-resolution image (1024 by 768 pixels, for instance), the resulting print may be blurry. In general, digital images taken with a 2-megapixel camera yield good 5-by-7-inch prints, and images from a 3-megapixel camera are better for 8-by-10-inch prints. Don't worry if your image has an overabundance of pixels--you can still create excellent prints of 3-megapixel images in 5-by-7 format.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Top Tips for Camera Phone Pictures
Take lots of pictures
Since your camera phone is always with you, take advantage of capturing those spontaneous moments. Take lots of pictures to increase your chance of capturing just the right shot. Afterward, you can go back and delete the pictures you don't want. Then be sure to upload the keepers to an online photo album, like to your computer so you can save them on your hard drive or CD.
Move in close
Many camera phones lack a zoom lens, so make sure you move in close to capture your subject. Often, you'll be taking pictures with your camera phone that you wouldn't necessarily take with your regular camera, like your latest find at a yard sale.
Fill your phone's display screen with your subject to create pictures with greater impact. Up close you can reveal telling details – a wrinkled nose or an arched eyebrow. But don't get too close or your pictures will be blurry and distorted. As a general rule, stand about one to two feet from your subject.
Shoot at eye level
Direct eye contact can be as engaging in a picture as it is in real life. When taking a picture of someone, hold the camera at the person's eye level to unleash the power of those magnetic gazes and mesmerizing smiles.
For children and pets, that means stooping to their level. Your subject doesn't have to stare at the camera -- all by itself that eye level angle will create a personal and inviting feeling that pulls you into the picture.
Watch the light
Unless your camera phone has a built-in flash, low light = bad picture. Try to take pictures in bright light. Without adequate lighting, your camera phone pictures will look dark and grainy. In sunlight, move around where the sun beams onto your subject. Indoors, turn on extra lights to brighten your subject.
Use a plain background
A plain background shows off the subject you are photographing. When you're ready to take your picture, force yourself to study the area surrounding your subject. Make sure a tree isn't growing from the head of your subject and that no cars seem to dangle from their ears. Check your picture in the your phone's display screen and retake it if necessary.
Try different angles
Try turning your camera phone sideways to take horizontal pictures. Many things look better in a horizontal picture, like group shots. While you're at it, experiment by taking pictures at different angles from your subject – above, below, diagonally – you might like what you find.
Set resolution to high
Many camera phones let you choose the size of the pictures you take. They often include a low, medium, and high setting for the resolution (picture quality). The higher the setting, the better the quality. You should set your camera phone to the highest setting to capture the best quality pictures. You might not see a difference between the different quality settings on your phone's display screen, but it will definitely make a big difference on a computer screen.
Discover your camera phones capabilities
Discover your camera phone's capabilities Although camera phones are relatively new, many are packed with fun features. Check your phone provider's manual (or your cellular provider's Web site) to see if you can take advantage of these:
Picture effects – snap pictures in black & white or sepia or add different frames to your pictures. Photo caller ID – associate a picture with a person in your address book that appears every time they call you
Wallpaper – save your favorite picture as the background for your phone.
Self-timer – capture your picture at the right moment.
Be courteous
Just as we've grown accustomed to turning off our cell phones and pagers at the movies, we should incorporate camera phone etiquette into our everyday behavior. Here are some guidelines to follow:
Ask permission from strangers before taking their picture.
Check for restrictions on cameras and camera phones. Many places, like airplanes, court houses, concert venues, and military bases, don't allow cameras or phones. Abide by their rules.
Don't bombard people with your pictures. Phones and e-mail have limited storage space. Try storing your pictures at an online photo site, like KODAK EASYSHARE Gallery.
Make sure your recipients recognize your e-mail address. Many camera phones send e-mail with a phone number instead of a name.
Don't forget your regular camera
Today's camera phones are great for spontaneous pictures and sharing everyday moments -- but they don't capture enough detail to make high quality prints of your pictures. So if you want prints of special events, like birthdays and vacations, make sure you use a film or digital camera also. That way you'll get the best of both worlds – pictures to immediately e-mail using your cell phone and great prints from your camera that will last a lifetime.
Store and share pictures
KODAK EASYSHARE Gallery allows you to store and share your life in pictures with anyone, whenever you want, wherever you are. Share your photos with any computer or photo-ready phone and access all your saved pictures, including photos from friends and family, anytime you want. Send pictures directly from your phone to your Gallery account, where you enjoy unlimited and secure storage for your photos and phone-captured video online in one location.
more info check out http://www.kodak.com
Since your camera phone is always with you, take advantage of capturing those spontaneous moments. Take lots of pictures to increase your chance of capturing just the right shot. Afterward, you can go back and delete the pictures you don't want. Then be sure to upload the keepers to an online photo album, like to your computer so you can save them on your hard drive or CD.
Move in close
Many camera phones lack a zoom lens, so make sure you move in close to capture your subject. Often, you'll be taking pictures with your camera phone that you wouldn't necessarily take with your regular camera, like your latest find at a yard sale.
Fill your phone's display screen with your subject to create pictures with greater impact. Up close you can reveal telling details – a wrinkled nose or an arched eyebrow. But don't get too close or your pictures will be blurry and distorted. As a general rule, stand about one to two feet from your subject.
Shoot at eye level
Direct eye contact can be as engaging in a picture as it is in real life. When taking a picture of someone, hold the camera at the person's eye level to unleash the power of those magnetic gazes and mesmerizing smiles.
For children and pets, that means stooping to their level. Your subject doesn't have to stare at the camera -- all by itself that eye level angle will create a personal and inviting feeling that pulls you into the picture.
Watch the light
Unless your camera phone has a built-in flash, low light = bad picture. Try to take pictures in bright light. Without adequate lighting, your camera phone pictures will look dark and grainy. In sunlight, move around where the sun beams onto your subject. Indoors, turn on extra lights to brighten your subject.
Use a plain background
A plain background shows off the subject you are photographing. When you're ready to take your picture, force yourself to study the area surrounding your subject. Make sure a tree isn't growing from the head of your subject and that no cars seem to dangle from their ears. Check your picture in the your phone's display screen and retake it if necessary.
Try different angles
Try turning your camera phone sideways to take horizontal pictures. Many things look better in a horizontal picture, like group shots. While you're at it, experiment by taking pictures at different angles from your subject – above, below, diagonally – you might like what you find.
Set resolution to high
Many camera phones let you choose the size of the pictures you take. They often include a low, medium, and high setting for the resolution (picture quality). The higher the setting, the better the quality. You should set your camera phone to the highest setting to capture the best quality pictures. You might not see a difference between the different quality settings on your phone's display screen, but it will definitely make a big difference on a computer screen.
Discover your camera phones capabilities
Discover your camera phone's capabilities Although camera phones are relatively new, many are packed with fun features. Check your phone provider's manual (or your cellular provider's Web site) to see if you can take advantage of these:
Picture effects – snap pictures in black & white or sepia or add different frames to your pictures. Photo caller ID – associate a picture with a person in your address book that appears every time they call you
Wallpaper – save your favorite picture as the background for your phone.
Self-timer – capture your picture at the right moment.
Be courteous
Just as we've grown accustomed to turning off our cell phones and pagers at the movies, we should incorporate camera phone etiquette into our everyday behavior. Here are some guidelines to follow:
Ask permission from strangers before taking their picture.
Check for restrictions on cameras and camera phones. Many places, like airplanes, court houses, concert venues, and military bases, don't allow cameras or phones. Abide by their rules.
Don't bombard people with your pictures. Phones and e-mail have limited storage space. Try storing your pictures at an online photo site, like KODAK EASYSHARE Gallery.
Make sure your recipients recognize your e-mail address. Many camera phones send e-mail with a phone number instead of a name.
Don't forget your regular camera
Today's camera phones are great for spontaneous pictures and sharing everyday moments -- but they don't capture enough detail to make high quality prints of your pictures. So if you want prints of special events, like birthdays and vacations, make sure you use a film or digital camera also. That way you'll get the best of both worlds – pictures to immediately e-mail using your cell phone and great prints from your camera that will last a lifetime.
Store and share pictures
KODAK EASYSHARE Gallery allows you to store and share your life in pictures with anyone, whenever you want, wherever you are. Share your photos with any computer or photo-ready phone and access all your saved pictures, including photos from friends and family, anytime you want. Send pictures directly from your phone to your Gallery account, where you enjoy unlimited and secure storage for your photos and phone-captured video online in one location.
more info check out http://www.kodak.com
Friday, September 14, 2007
.jpg)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)